There’s nothing worse than heading out to your pool for some relief from the heat only to find that your oasis isn’t exactly looking crystal clear. Cloudy, murky, can’t see the bottom? Cloudy pool water can mean a number of things might be wrong. Take a gander at our guide to cloudy pool water and let’s see if we can get to the bottom of your murky mess.
How “Cloudy” is Your Water?
To understand the solution to your murky situation, we must first examine your water. What does your water look like? On a scale from “Dull” to “Jaws Might Be Swimming in my Pool and I wouldn’t Know Because I Cannot See Anything”, where does your pool rank?
Dull – I’ll describe this as BLAH water. It doesn’t look like the swimming pools you see in the pictures. Where is the sparkle?
Murky – The pool isn’t as clear as it normally is.
Cloudy – This is a step up from murky; you can make out the bottom of your pool if you inspect closely.
Opaque – On onlooker might think you filled your pool with milk instead of water. Your view of the bottom is completely obscured.
All of the above may mean you have a water clarity issue on your hands, but before we jump to the solution, let’s identify the root of the problem.
What’s Making It Cloudy?
There are quite a few factors that can negatively impact the clarity of your water and result in the cloudiness you are observing.
Mechanical Reasons
If the chemistry is good and the pool is being properly shocked and treated on a regular basis, then it might be that the pool’s mechanics are at fault. The mechanical components that can contribute to murky pool water include:
·Improper pump and/or motor size
·Insufficient filtering time
·Poor circulation,
·Improper filter size
·Improper maintenance (vacuuming & brushing).
The Solutions
Your swimming pool's filtering system should be operating a minimum of 8 to 10 hours per day. If the pool water becomes murky, be sure to increase the amount of time until the problem has been solved.
Regular vacuuming will ensure proper circulation and help with water clarity. Consider using an automatic pool cleaner. You'll end up with better circulation, cleaner pool surfaces and less work.
Make sure that you clean your filter from time to time. Bacteria build-up in your filter or blockage can cause water clarity problems.
If your pump is improperly fitted for your pool, cloudy water issues may also arise. If the pump is too large, you may be forcing debris you want filtered right through the filter.
It may also help to thoroughly clean your pump, making sure it is free of debris. Blockages can negatively affect the efficiency of the pump and water circulation.
Environmental Causes
It is important to think about what could be getting into your pool to result in the murkiness. Do you have a low hanging tree? Is your backyard home to furry critters? Is there construction nearby? Environmental factors include and are not limited to:
·Bird Droppings
·Leaves
·Branches
·Pollen
·Dust
·Dirt
The Solutions
Despite that the fact all these pesky pollutants cause muddied pool water, they must be dealt with differently. Pollen, dust and other particles can be treated using a water clarifier. Flocculants work well in severe situations by settling the particles to the bottom of them pool. You are then able to get them out using a vacuum. A skimmer sock inside of the skimmer works well in removing fine pollen or dust that may be too fine for your filter.
Things such as leaves and bird droppings can create the build up of bacteria and results in a chemical imbalance. In this instance, shocking the pool is necessary to ensure that you’re eliminating the root of problem.
Chemical Reasons
Many pool owners quickly blame "bad chemicals", but it is important to note that most of the time environmental and mechanical issues should be ruled out before you skip to chemical issues.Here are some of the factors that can result in cloudy pool water:
·Water chemistry can contribute to cloudy or hazy water
·Chemical cleaning of the filter, poorly maintained sanitizer levels, lack of a chemical maintenance routine.
·Improper pool shocking
The Solutions
If the water chemistry is at fault, the pH levels in your pool will be too high. Other chemical imbalances include that the total alkalinity (TA) is too high or the Calcium Hardness (CH) is too high. With pH & TA being overly high, the water will become dull and the chlorine reacts more slowly. This causes the chemicals to be ineffective against bacteria and algae. This can cause algae and other bacteria build up which will affect the overall clarity of the water.
High CH doesn't become a problem until the water warms up to a temperature over 80 degrees. Calcium minerals dissolve quicker in cold temperatures. When the pool is heated up, the high amounts of CH become visible, as the calcium takes much longer to dissolve.
By paying close attention to your chemicals levels, you can easily avoid this. If you find that one of these imbalances is present in your pool.
Another chemical issue that can cause cloudy pool water is a lack of regular shocking. Pool owners need to shock their pool regularly and to use the correct amount each time they do. By regularly shocking the pool, you are ridding it of human excrements that can cause discolored water. Proper shocking also helps to revitalize the chlorine level and knock out early algae growth
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New to owning a pool? If so, you're probably well aware that there's a delicate chemical balance to your pool, but you may not be familiar with what those chemicals are or what they actually do. Fortunately, we're here to help.
There are a few elements of pool chemistry that you'll want to be familiar with if you're responsible for maintaining a pool. Those elements are pH, total alkalinity, calcium hardness, stain producing metals and disinfection.
1. You may remember playing with litmus paper as a youngster in science class dipping it into household liquids to determine if a liquid was an acid or a base. This is the same principle, as the pH is the measure of the same levels in your pool water. A healthy range for a swimming pool water is usually between 7.2 and 7.8. Ideally, you should test this daily as problems will occur if your levels fall outside of this range. Levels over 7.8 can lead to staining, cloudy water and even filtration problems. If your level falls below 7.2 you can irritate swimmers skin and eyes and also corrode metal pipes.
2. Keeping your pH in balance can be tricky if your pool falls outside a healthy range for total alkalinity. If your pool water's total alkalinity falls between 75 and 120 parts per million your water will be more resistant to change and make your life much easier.
Using a stabilizing agent can help keep your range stable for a longer period of time.
3. Have hard water? If so, you're probably familiar with the effects, and you can deduce that it's not ideal for your swimming pool either. Calcium hardness is the amount of dissolved calcium in your water, and if your range is outside of 100-500 parts per million you'll run into issues. If you're on the high side of this scale add a rust and scale remover and if you're on the low side you can add a water hardness increaser.
4. If you've seen a pool with a heavily stained interior it's probably due to iron, cobalt, copper or manganese. Most areas will have issues with at least one of these metals in the water supply, so to avoid unsightly staining we recommend using a metal control agent.
5. Last but not least - chlorine. This is the one we all know. Chlorine, of course, is responsible for disinfecting your pool. Keeping the aforementioned items within their appropriate ranges will allow you to use a lot less chlorine. A proper chlorine level will have enough free chlorine to manage algae, organic matter and microorganisms. A healthy level of free available chlorine should be between 1-2 parts per million.
Sometimes you may need to add shock to your pool - for example when you smell chlorine. When your pool is really now on free available chlorine pool contaminates are burnt off and come off as a gas (thus the smell).
Other useful items for your pool include a preventative algaecide, which when used weekly can help avoid any future issues with algae growth. Also, perhaps the most important item not already discussed is a good testing kit. If you don't have a quality testing kit, each of these items becomes nearly impossible to manage.
Vacuuming should be done as
often as needed. Normally, once a week is sufficient. Generally
speaking, the more a pool is used the less vacuuming it needs. It's
pretty simple. Many pool owners enjoy vacuuming on a nice sunny summer afternoon . Many of our customers use a good automatic pool vacuum to do
this work for them. Even so, a good manual vacuum is good a couple times of month.
Yes! If they have good exposure to the sun during the day, they will raise the temperature of the water 10 – 15 degrees over a few days.
They also insulate the pool and keep the heat in over night. By
eliminating evaporation, they also save on chemicals and water. They retain heat and form an insulating layer on top of the water. Poor water balance can deteriorate solar covers.
Swimming weather usually
lasts through August in our area, and often into September. There is
usually no real risk of freezing until after Thanksgiving, so there is
no reason to hurry up and close your pool. You can wait as long as you
like, but many pools are closed immediately after the kids return to
school with the remainder of them being closed by the middle of October.
The
biggest factors in determining when to close your pool are how many
trees you have and which type of cover you have. If you have very many
trees in your yard, once the leaves start falling, you may find that you
may have to clean out your skimmers baskets and your automatic cleaner
as much as 2-3 times a day. If you cannot keep up with this, you may
want to close earlier instead of later.
If you have a mesh cover,
remember to "close late and open early" to minimize the algae growth
that can occur because sunlight passes through the mesh. Some folks that
have a mesh cover will put the cover on as soon as the leaves start
falling, but will leave the pool operating underneath. That way, if we
have a nice weekend, they can pull off the cover and enjoy the pool
again.
If you have a solid cover, you can close earlier. Some
folks with solid covers wait until most of the leaves have fallen before
they close because they find it easier to keep the pool clean than to
scoop the leaves off the top of the cover.
Regardless of what type
of cover you have, the less time that your pool is dormant, the fewer
problems that you will have during the rest of the year. Plus, the pool
looks so much better when it is running. So why not try and extend your
poolside season. If we are lucky, we'll have a couple of nice evenings
where you can sit out next to the pool and enjoy a drink or have dinner
with the family. And an Indian summer could mean that the kids can keep
swimming into October.
If you want to do one
thing to increase how much time your family spends in the pool, adding a
pool heater to your equipment system is probably the answer. We often
ask, "You wouldn't swim in a dirty pool, why are you swimming in a cold
one?" In this area, a heater should probably be a standard piece of
equipment on every pool if you actually want to use the pool for more
than a few weeks each season.
Gas heaters are available in
natural or propane models. One advantage to a gas heater is that it is
quick. If you only want to heat your pool periodically-- say for just
the weekend-- a gas heater will allow you to do this. Gas heaters are
available in a variety of sizes (from 100,000 BTUs to 250,000 BTUs) and
the larger the heater the quicker the pool will heat.
If, however,
you like to use your pool every day-- say for daily exercise-- an
electric heat pump is the most efficient way to maintain your pool at a
constant temperature all season long by slowly taking warm air and
transferring it to the swimming pool water. Though more expensive to
purchase initially than a gas heater, an electric heat pump can maintain
your pool at a constant temperature for significantly less than natural
gas or propane gas.
After your new heater has been installed onto
your filter system, you will need to have the gas or electric service
hooked up to the unit by a certified gas plumber, your propane company
or an electrician.
No matter what type of heater you choose, you
will want to use a solar blanket to reduce your energy costs. This is
especially important in the evenings when cooler air temperatures and
warmer water temperatures result in evaporation that contributes to heat
loss.
Remember, when you invest in a pool heater, you are
creating more opportunities for those treasured poolside family memories
of the future.
Before you put your pool
to rest in the fall, it is important to have an end-of-season water
analysis performed on your pool. Even though you will not be using the
pool in the winter, it is still crucial to make sure the pool is in
balance while it is dormant. In fact, it is even more important that
when the pool is running, because you are not as likely to notice any
changes in water chemistry beneath your winter cover.
You should
have a complete Winter Water Analysis 5-10 days before you winterize
your pool to verify that your pool is in balance.
Also,
if your pool has algae or is cloudy, be sure to tell our staff when you
are having your water test done. You will want to correct these
problems before you close down so that they will not become worse over
the winter.
Have you noticed a white buildup at the waterline and on the tile or rocks around the swimming pool? This buildup is a calcium deposit otherwise known as scale.
What Causes Scale
- scale can be caused by pool water that is out of balance in a number
of different ways. If one or more of the pool water parameters are not
in an acceptable range, calcium deposits can occur. A high calcium
hardness reading of above 1000 ppm(hard water), a high pH of over 7.8,
or a high alkalinity reading of over 120 can contribute to scale.
How to Remove Scale
- there are many different scale removal products on the market..
How to Prevent Scale in the Future
- once the scale is gone, in order to prevent future calcium deposits,
test the calcium hardness, pH, and alkalinity parameters of the pool
water and bring them into an acceptable range. If the calcium hardness
level is high, consider a partial water replacement for the pool. But
before replacing any water be sure to test the calcium hardness of the
fill water to make sure it will help. If the fill water already has a
high calcium harness reading, most likely scale will continue to be a
problem. Also, routinely brush the pool and consider routinely using a
scale removal product.
Weekly Maintenance to Prevent Scale
- as stated above, the best way to avoid calcium buildup is to have
balanced pool water and to test all of the pool water parameters on a
weekly basis to make sure it remains balanced. But it can also help to
routinely brush the pool and consider periodically using a scale removal
product.
Scale buildup on a swimming pool can be an ugly
problem, but in most cases can be managed with diligent and routine pool
maintenance. In cases where calcium deposits are inevitable, there are
two different approaches. The first approach is to accept that scale
buildup is a natural occurrence in most nature settings. Just look at
the rocks around a lake or river and you will notice the same buildup.
The second approach is to manage the problem as much as possible, and
budget to pay for a scale removal service every few years.
Backwash your filter when
the pressure reaches 10psi over the “clean reading” to obtain the best
filtering capabilities. If your pool is dirty, green or cloudy,
back washing may be a frequent task. This is because the filter is doing
its job of pulling out the problem causing contaminants. Every pool is
different. Here are some general instructions that may help refresh your
memory.
Overview for Back washing a DE Filter with a multi-port valve:
Turn off pump and empty & clean the pump basket. Reassemble the pump.
Turn filter handle to backwash position.
Turn pump back on. Water will start to come out the backwash line.
Backwash for at least 3 minutes.
When
the water runs clear in the sight glass, turn the pump off and turn the
handle to rinse. Turn the pump back on for 15-30 seconds.
Turn the pump off and turn the handle to filter.
Turn the pump back on and bleed any remaining air from the tank.
Once water begins circulating through the system, add your DE to the skimmer to re-coat the filter grids.
Overview for Back washing a DE Filter with a push/pull valve:
Turn the off pump and empty & clean the pump basket. Reassemble the pump.
Twist the handle and pull up on the valve to move it into backwash position.
Turn pump back on. Water will start to come out the backwash line.
Backwash for at least 3 minutes.
When the backwash water runs clear, turn the pump off. Push the handle to the filter position and twist it to lock it in place.
Turn the pump back on and bleed any remaining air from the the filter tank.
Once water begins circulating through the system, slowly add your DE to the skimmer to re-coat the filter grids.
1. If
your pool is equipped, be sure that the valve on the suction line
coming into the pump is selected for the port (either skimmer or lower
suction fitting) you will be using to vacuum.
2. Attach the
vacuum hose to the vacuum head (the piece with the brushes or wheels on
it). The better quality vacuum hoses come with a swivel end to prevent
tangling of the hose. Be sure that this is the end that is attached to
the vacuum head; if not the system will draw air & not work
properly.
3. Make sure the hose is secure and the vacuum head is firmly attached to the pole.
4. Place
the vacuum head, hose & pole into the deep end of the pool (make
sure one end of the pole is sticking out of the water!)
5. Take
the UN-attached end of the vacuum hose & hold it in front of one of
the water return fittings. This will fill the hose with water &
prevent binding of the pump with air. You know you've got enough water
in the hose when the vacuum head bubbles up to the top.
6. Put your hand over the end of the hose to keep the water IN.
7. Place
the skimmer basket adapter on top of the skimmer basket. Always use a
basket to prevent the possible suction of a large object from getting
stuck in the skimmer or in the underground line.
8. If vacuuming through a lower suction without a basket, use a leaf trap.
9. After
you have placed the hose on the adapter fitting you will probably
notice a sudden drop in filter activity. This is normal. The filter
system is just readjusting itself to the change in suction. Let it
operate for about 30 to 90 seconds. It should automatically bleed any
air out of its system and return to normal operation. You'll hear the
sound becoming "normal" again.
10. Vacuum away!
Troubleshooting
No suction.
Either the hose has come off of the basket, the filter has lost its
prime (not sucking water) or the hose a leak (make sure you've got the
proper end of the hose on the vac head). If you have more than one
suction line, be sure you're drawing from the proper one.
Dirty water returning to the pool. If you have a sand filter, DO NOT BACKWASH THE FILTER BEFOREVACUUMING.
Backwashing stirs up the sand & prevents good trapping of dirt for
several HOURS. In cartridge or DE filters, this rarely happens.
I vacuum for a few minutes & then it doesn't work anymore.
How dirty is the pool? If it's REALLY dirty, you may be better off
vacuuming to direct waste (sand filter) or otherwise vacuuming directly
out of the pool by-passing the filter.
After backwashing, take
note of the pressure reading after returning the valve back to the
filter position. Once the pressure reaches 8-10 psi over your normal
operating pressure, backwash your filter. Backwashing your filter too
frequently can cause your pool to become cloudy, as well as decrease the
effectiveness of your filter.
We recommend chemically
cleaning the filter at least twice a season. If you did not clean the
filter when you closed the pool, clean it at the beginning of the
season. However, if the filter was cleaned at closing, the first
cleaning should be done around the 4th of July
Overlap liners fold over
the top of the wall and are held in place by coping and metal rods. A
beaded liner fits into a groove on the inside of the pool wall.
Yes! Brushing is an
excellent way to prevent algae and other unforeseen problems. Automatic
pool cleaners do not provide as much scrubbing action as brushes.
You most likely have a
chlorine demand. Double shock with Cal Shock (click here to go to product) every 3 hours until you can
hold a free chlorine reading of 1.0 ppm or higher for at least 24 hours.
This process will satisfy the demand of chlorine.
Clear green water usually
indicates a presence of copper in the water. A chelating agent, such as, Metal Free (click here to go to product), can be added to remove the metals.
Chloramines are the cause
of the strong odor of chlorine. Chloramines are created by swimmer
waste, perspiration, oils, and other contaminants that often enter the
pool. Super-chlorinating your pool will alleviate this problem.
High purity salt. It is important that the salt does not contain additives.
Any common salt (like table salt) usually has an additive that may have
straining properties. Consult your pool professional. They will make
sure you use a suitable salt.
Salt is lost only through
splash-out and backwashing. It is not lost through the chlorination
process or evaporation. So, you'll only have to add a small amount each
year. Unless you have to do alot of backwashing.
Check the pump impeller for clogging or take the steps to eliminate an air leak on the suction side of the system. If that doesn’t solve the problem, you should have a service tech out to diagnose the problem.
Chlorine Demand is the
consistent inability to maintain a chlorine residual in a pool. It is
caused by a build up of contaminants which creates and "overload" on the
sanitizing system. Quite simply, it means that more sanitizer is
required that is being provided to the water.
There are two ways
to treat chlorine demand. The first is to add the appropriate amount of
chlorine. The quickest way to find out what that amount is would be to
have a dealer run a chlorine demand test.
The second way to treat chlorine demand is to drain some of the water
and replace with fresh water. While this will not completely take care
of the demand, it can help lower the amount of product needed.
It's the amount of
dissolved calcium in the water. Keeping CH at the proper range will help
protect equipment and keep water sparkling. It also helps prevent
cloudy water.
Ideal range 175 to 225 ppm (200 to 275 ppm for plaster) • If it's too low, use Calcium Increaser • If it's too high, use Scale Free • If over 400 ppm, it may be necessary to partially drain the pool and add source water with lower CH.
It's a measure of the
water's ability to resist changes in pH. pH can be affected by
environmental factors such as acid rain, pollution, run-off from the
surrounding land, and fertilizers-just to name a few. Keeping the TA at
the proper range will help prevent pH from fluctuating and help prevent
scale and cloudy water.
Ideal range 125 to 150 ppm
• If it's too low, use Alkalinity Increaser • If it's too high, use Ph Decreaser
It's a way to measure the
acidity or alkalinity of water. This is the most important part of
chemical balance because it protects the equipment, allows the sanitizer
to do its best job and increases swimmer enjoyment.
Ideal range 7.4 to 7.6 • If it's too low, use Ph Increaser • If it's too high, use Ph Decreaser
Opening your pool signals the start of warm weather and relaxed attitudes. Whether you're emerging from a long snowy winter or a quick brush with cooler temps, opening your pool can be a simple process.
1) Remove leaves and debris from pool cover. 2) Take off the cover, clean it, and store it. 3) Hook up pool pumps and filters and reconnect all hoses and electrical connections. 4) Remove leaves and debris from skimmers, filters, pumps and drains. 5) Take out leaves and debris from the pool. 6) Fill pool water up to proper level. 7) Turn on the filter pump and make sure all skimmers, bottom drains, and filters are functioning properly. 8) Vacuum up any remaining debris in the pool. 9) After pool filter has been running 3-4 hours, test the water. Retest water to see if any adjustments have to be made. 10) Once adjustments have been made, shock the pool following label directions. 11) Jump in!
During the first week
after you have started your pool system, run your pump and filter
continuously (24 -7 ) in order to filter out the
impurities that have accumulated all Winter. If you have a timer,
disable it so that it will not interfere with this. After your pool is
clear and blue your can reduce the filtration time to 8-10 hours a day
depending on the water temperature and your usage. Your pool will need
more attention just after opening it than it normally does during the
swimming season. Extra vacuuming, brushing and back-washing as well as
more careful attention to the chemicals will be necessary. The extra
time that you spend on your pool now will make the rest of the season
much easier for you.
During this period, backwash your filter
often to obtain the best filtering capabilities. When your filter
reaches 10psi over the "clean" reading it's time to backwash. This may
be as little as once every two weeks or as often as twice a day; it will
depend on how dirty your pool is and what type of filter you have. If
your pool is dirty, green or cloudy, back-washing will be a frequent
task. This is because the filter is doing its job of pulling out the
problem-causing contaminants.
Remove any debris that is in the
pool. If you cannot see the bottom, do blind-vacuuming and scooping or
your pool will not clear. Keep the chlorine level high (3.0ppm+) until
the pool is clear and be sure to keep your pH 7.4-7.6 so that the
chlorine will work more efficiently.
Two to ten days after your
pool is started, bring a water sample to one of our stores to evaluate
the overall balance of your pool water. Be sure that the pool has
circulated at least 2 days so that we can perform an accurate test.
Bring along an inventory of any chemicals you already have so that the
store staff can help you determine if you need to purchase any balancing
chemicals.
Once your pool is in balance and is clear and blue, you can begin your routine Once-A-Week Program of pool care.
When we talk about pool renovations, repairs and retrofits that reduce a pool's energy consumption, the focus typically turns to the pump, because it consumes more energy than any other piece of pool equipment. Plus, a well-designed variable-speed pump can reduce the energy costs of running a swimming pool by up to 90 percent.
Why? Historically, pool pumps with induction motors that run at only one or two speeds have drawn more energy than is required to circulate pool water. That is because a pump that can run at only one speed must use a powerful enough speed to do the pump's most demanding job (e.g., running a waterfall or pool cleaner). However, it takes far less power to simply keep water filtered—a difference single-speed pumps cannot address.
Most variable-speed pumps can be programmed to operate at set speeds to deliver the correct flow for each task they perform, such as operating a suction-side pool cleaner, waterfalls or spa jets. Some pumps have built-in constant-flow software, which maximizes the advantages of variable-speed technology; constant-flow pumps automatically adjust their speed and deliver the required flow for each programmed task. For example, an arcing laminar water feature may need 40 gallons per minute (gpm) to produce a smooth 6-ft arc of water. A constant-flow pump can sense the resistance being added to the system as the filter collects dirt and will automatically speed up so the water feature continues to get the amount of water it needs. With other types of pumps, including some variable-speed pumps, the water feature will gradually throw a shorter arc of water as the filter gets dirtier; it will only be restored to its original appearance after the filter is cleaned.
No matter what kind of pump is being used, slower pump speeds save energy. They also dramatically reduce the noise level associated with traditional pool pumps and reduce wear on not only the pump itself but also on filters, heaters, chlorinators and other equipment that water flows through.
Sticker Shock
Even with all of these advantages, the price tag of these technologically advanced pumps may at first seem hard to justify. But compare the cost of a new variable-speed pump with the cost of doing nothing.
If a pool uses a single-speed pump, it may cost $900 per year to run that pump. (Numbers will vary by region.) After five years, the owners will have spent $4500 running that pump. Meanwhile, in a well-designed system with a variable-speed pump, the comparable operational costs may be as little as $200 per year. So at the end of five years, the dollars spent running the pump will be about $1000, less than 1/4 what would have been spent running the old single-speed pump. The cost savings continue to multiply the longer the new pump is used.
Bottom line: the initial cost of a variable-speed pump can be recouped in year two.
Circulation
* Replace your pool pump with a more energy-efficient model.
• New variable speed pumps with permanent magnet motors and digital controls can save as much as 90% in utility costs compared to one- or two-speed pumps with induction motors.
• If using an energy-efficient one- or two-speed pump, make sure your pump is sized to your pool’s requirements.
• Reduce run time or speed to reduce energy use.
• If using a one-speed pump, reduce filtration run time. In general, water needs to be circulated through the filter once every 24 hours.
• If using a two-speed or variable speed pump, use the lowest speed to appropriately circulate the water. Reducing speed saves more energy than reducing run time. • Run your pool's filtration system during off-peak hours when electricity demand is lower, generally between 8 p.m. and 10 a.m. Install a timer or a control system to automate the hours of operation.
• Keep intake grates clear of debris. Clogged drains require the pump to work harder.
• To obtain maximum filtration and energy efficiency, backwash or clean your filter regularly, as required.
Heating & Heat Loss
• Reduce heat loss by using a pool cover. According to the U.S. Department of Energy, savings of 50% - 70% are possible.
• Fencing, hedges, landscaping, and cabanas that shelter your pool from prevailing winds will further reduce heat loss.
• If your pool heater is more than five years old, chances are a new high efficiency gas heater could quickly pay for itself in utility bill savings.
• A pool heat pump can save up to 80% in energy usage compared to a gas heater. Check with your pool professional to see if a heat pump is appropriate for your region.
• If you use your pool only on weekends, reduce your heater or heat pump thermostats settings by eight to ten degrees during the week.
• When leaving for vacation for more than a week, turn off the pool heater or heat pump, including the pilot light. Please use caution in freezing conditions.
• According to the Association of Pool & Spa Professionals and the American Red Cross, the most healthful swimming temperature is 78 degrees. Reducing your heater or heat pump thermostat to maintain a 78 degree or lower temperature will also help conserve energy.
• Install a timer or a control system to automate the hours of operation.
• When reopening your pool, make sure your heater or heat pump is working properly.
First, you should find
out why your pool went cloudy. It is important to remember that water
clarity is 50% chemistry and 50% filtration. (See below for possible
causes and ways to improve filter efficiency.) A mid-season water
analysis and chemical cleaning of your filter would be the first steps
to treating cloudy water. You may also need problem-solver products in
addition to chemistry adjustments to restore water clarity. We recommend
the following water enhancer products to help.
The first product
we usually recommend is Natural Chemistry's Clear & Perfect 8oz ( click to go to product) -- the newest, most improved
water clarifier on the market. Clear & Perfect takes the tiny particles that are
causing cloudiness and clumps them together so it is easier for your
filter to pull them out. It is important to follow directions and not
use too much of this product or else it can actually work against
itself. Additionally, we may recommend Sand Aid (click to go to product). This lightweight
powder is added through the skimmer and sits in your filter tightening
up the filter media so it can filter even smaller particles than usual.
When you use Sand Aid, you will have to backwash very often, as your
filter will get clogged much faster than usual. Finally, if those don't work, we may recommend Floc N Vac (click to go to product). This is a very strong product that attracts particles
together and causes them to settle out onto the floor of the pool so
that they can easily be vacuumed out. The greater the amount of
suspended debris in the water, the faster Floc N Vac will work. However,
we do recommend that you vacuum the settled debris "to waste" so that
you do not clog your filter. If you use Floc N Vac, your filter should
be equipped with a "multiport valve" instead of a push-pull valve or a
bump-handle.
Patience and attention to your water chemistry will
be the answers for clearing your pool. Prevention will keep it looking
clear.
Usually a drop in
chlorine levels is the primary cause of cloudy water. As the water
warms, chlorine consumption increases. Also, increased usage means more
chlorine is needed. A large amount of rain will also contribute to extra
chlorine consumption. All of these factors can cause a dip in your
chlorine levels which in turn can result in cloudiness. But, there are
other water chemistry issues that can cause decreased chlorine levels or
cloudy water so you should bring your water to one of our stores for a
mid-season analysis.
It is important to remember that water
clarity is 50% chemistry and 50% filtration. If you are not running your
filter long enough or if your filter is not working efficiently, then
proper water chemistry will not solve your problem. During the summer
you should be running your filter 10-12 hours per day if the water is
clear & blue and 24 hours a day if it's not. Chemical cleaning of
your filter is a preventative maintenance step to keep your filter
working its best. You can improve filter efficiency by chemically
cleaning your sand or filter grids once or twice a season using Filter Cleaner (click here to go to product) Mid-season
and at closing are the perfect times to do this. Use .
Additionally, the sand in sand filters should be replaced every 1-2
years.
Remember, the best solution to a cloudy pool is not to let
it get cloudy. Following a routine like the Once-A-Week 3-Step
Maintenance Program is the foundation for clear and blue water. .
• The motor has an internal cooling fan that can be heard. When installing your pump, it is advised to carefully consider the location; under a bedroom window may not be an ideal location. • Vibration from the pump’s feet and the base (where the pump rests) can cause the pump to be noisy. A piece of old carpet or rubber between the pump’s base and equipment pad might reduce the noise. • Ensure the pump is level and the suction lines are not higher then the pump. • The bearing(s) might be noisy due to age or high concentrations of chemicals and heat. A leaky pump seal could damage the front motor bearing. It is very important to quickly repair any leaks around the pump to prevent extensive damage. It is recommended that you replace the bearings or the entire motor.
• Many times a noisy pump can come from cavitation. Cavitation has two possible causes, which are both hydraulically (water flow) related. The first is that the suction piping is undersized. If this pipe is undersized, the amount of water the pump requires to operate properly is reduced. Increasing the pipe size (increase water flow) or dropping the size of the impeller (decrease water flow) can quiet the pump. The second is that there is little or no backpressure on the pressure side of system (water feature pumps are a good example). Adding a valve or something to increase backpressure is advised.
Why are there air bubbles flowing into the pool from the return fitting(s)?
If air is returning into the pool there might be a leak on the suction side of the pump. Check the following items that maybe causing air to enter the system:
• The strainer cover and O-ring. Tighten if loose or replace gasket if damaged.
• Level of water in the pool is low causing water and air to mix into the skimmer. • The skimmer weir may be stuck in the up position causing water and air to mix in the skimmer.
• Check the drain plugs on the pump strainer housing. • Check all of the threaded fittings for leaks from improper sealants or sealing procedures.
• Check glued fittings for bad glue joints.
• Check all valves for possible leaks. Valve stem O-rings are a common suction leak point.
• Check and ensure the pump is not cavitating.
• Check pump housing for cracks.
Why is my motor running, but I do not see any water flowing?
• A dirty filter, blocked return line, or a valve that is shut or partially shut off on the return side of the pump can cause this problem.
• Check the strainer basket and make sure it is clean of debris.
• The pump’s impeller may be clogged if the pump is running but the pressure is very low on the filter. Inspect and clean the impeller.
Why won’t my pump fill with water (prime)?
• An air leak on the suction side of the pump.
• Check to make sure the suction line is free of obstructions.
• Check to make sure the impeller is still attached to the shaft of the motor. If the impeller has broken off, it will need to be replaced.
• If the pump is installed a distance from the pool or is elevated above the normal deck level, the time needed to prime the pump could be longer. For elevated installations, a check valve may be needed on the suction line to allow for easier priming.
Can I run my pump without water?
• Pool pumps should never operate without water. The pump seal assembly in the pump volute (The area between the strainer basket and the pump motor) protects the pump motor from pool water. This seal assembly gets hot and is cooled by the pool water. If the pump is running without water, the seal will overheat and melt, If left running without water for a long period of time, the heat generated could damage the PVC pipe and other system components.
Why does my multiport valve leak out of the backwash line?
• The valve seat gasket inside of the valve may have become worn or loose. If this is the case, you will need to replace the gasket. With the pump off, remove the cover screws of the valve.
NOTE: Mark the top and bottom of the valve with a marking pen. It's very important that you do not change the location of the cover when re-assembling. Some newer valves will have a flat spot along side one of the cover screws. When re-assembling, align the flat spots.
• GENLTY remove the old gasket and glue, ensuring the channels are clean and clear. Use 3M adhesive or crazy glue**. Lay a bead of adhesive into the channel where the gasket sits. Place the flat side of the gasket into the channel. Apply pressure to firmly seat the gasket and let dry for 24 hours. **Crazy Glue – Use caution when using crazy glue. You will have only ONE chance to seat the gasket.
Why does my filter run at a high filter pressure and has reduced water flow to the pool?
• A dirty filter maybe the problem. When the filter pressure rises 8-10 PSI over the clean starting pressure, it is time to backwash or clean the filter
• If there is algae in the pool, it maybe clogging the filter, keeping the pressure high. The filter cannot kill algae.
• If the filter pressure continues to run high with reduced water flow to the pool, the pump may be moving more water than the filter is designed to handle. Check the flow ratings of both the pump and filter to ensure they are sized correctly.
• You may have a blocked or plugged return line.
Why is the filter continuing to run at high pressure even after backwashing?
• Make sure you are following the instructions in your owner’s manual. The sand bed may be clogged with mineral deposits or other material that will not backwash away. Some calcium based chlorines and other alternative sanitizers could cause a build-up in your sand bed. You may need to change the sand.
• Before you change the sand in you filter, try removing approximately 1” of the top layer of sand, and replace with the exact amount of sand removed. This sometimes rids the sand bed of the deposits clogging the filter.
• You may have to clean you filter system with a special filter cleaner,
• Check to see if there is a closed or partially closed valve on the return piping.
• Your pump may be too small to provide sufficient flow for proper backwashing. Your filter will filter properly, but if your pump does not supply at least 60% of the filter’s designed flow rate, you filter will never backwash completely. Refer to the label on you filter for flow rate requirements. It may be necessary to upgrade the pump or downgrade the filter.
• Your pump may also be exceeding the maximum allowed flow rate of you filter causing excessive backpressure. Check you owners guide or the operations label on you filter for the maximum allowed flow rate. You may have to downsize the impeller or pump to a lower horsepower or change the filter for one that will accommodate the pump’s flow rate. If allowed to continue, a pump that exceeds the recommended flow rate of a sand filter could cause the sand bed to channel (small channels in the sand that allow debris to pass unfiltered). This would cause debris to by-pass the filter.
Deeper into the science and luxury of salt chlorination
Salt chlorinated pool water earned a reputation as the ultimate swimming experience. Curious about how it works?
The heart of a salt system is the salt chlorinator. It uses electrolytic technology to convert ordinary salt into chlorine.
There are two components to salt chlorinators: the control box and electrolytic converter, also known as a cell. It installs in your system's return line, behind the pump, filter and heater. As pool water passes through the converter, an extremely safe electrical charge, generated by the control box, automatically converts the dissolved salt into chlorine. The water is then dispersed evenly throughout the pool by the return jets. Each time the water is recirculated, the salt-based chlorine gets recharged and the cycle is repeated. Chlorine production is based on a percentage of filter run, set on the control box.
What this means to you. A swimmer's experience with salt chlorinated water is amazing! It's softer on the eyes, skin and clothing and it happens automatically. You don't have to buy, transport and distribute factory-produced chlorine.
What could be even better? We've stated that all chlorinators automatically produce chlorine on a predetermined timed basis. This means they're producing chlorine whether you need it or not. What if a chlorinator produced chlorine only when the water needed it, based on demand? An example would be an infrequently used pool with a cover. There is minimal bather load and sun exposure which reduce the need for chlorine. Only producing chlorine when the water needs it means the systems and materials will last longer and the water would never be over chlorinated.
• Maintain your pool water level halfway up the skimmer box opening. • A pool may typically lose a minimal amount of water each day (no more than ¼ inch) due to evaporation and/or splash out. If your pool is losing more water than that, there could possibly be a leak. Monitor closely and consult your pool professional if you suspect a leak.
• Loose tiles or cracks in the pool deck may be an indication of a leaking pool.
• Cracks and gaps in the bond beam may be an indication that your pool is leaking.
• If you notice water-saturated soils in the area around the pool, pool pumps or plumbing, your pool may be leaking.
• If you see bubbles in the return water when the pool's pump is running, it's likely there's a leak in the suction side of the filtration system.
Water Conservation
Pool Tips
Check for cracks and leaks around your pool, spa and equipment.
A leaky pool can waste over 100,000 gallons per year! Monitor your pool closely and consult your pool professional if you suspect a leak. Some signs of leaking to look for are:
• If your pool water level is going down more than 1/4" per day, there could possibly be a leak.
• Loose tiles or cracks in the pool deck may be an indication of a leaking pool.
• Cracks and gaps in the bond beam may be an indication that your pool is leaking.
• If you notice water-saturated soils in the area around the pool, pool pumps or plumbing, your pool may be leaking.
• If you see bubbles in the return water when the pool's pump is running, it's likely there's a leak in the suction side of the filtration system.
Install and use a pool cover.
The average uncovered pool loses one inch of water per week. Covering your pool can save up to 30-40% of water lost to evaporation.
Lower the pool water temperature when not being used.
Reducing the temperature also reduces water loss to evaporation.
Plant a windbreak.
Wind blowing across the surface of the pool causes additional evaporation. A windbreak can help you conserve water as well as energy costs.
Lower the pool water level to reduce losses from splashing.
• Maintain your pool water level one inch above the bottom of the tile.
Keep your filters clean to prevent backwashing.
The average backwash uses between 250 to 1,000 gallons of water.
• Backwash only when necessary.
• Run filter backwash onto lawns and shrubs or collect for reuse
• Ensure that water is absorbed before it leaves your property and avoid allowing runoff to enter adjacent properties
Circulation - The more the water
moves, the harder it is for problems to take hold. Additionally,
properly circulated water insures that chemicals
are properly mixed throughout the pool. The best time to circulate the water is during the day, for 10 hours or more. The more your water is in motion the harder it is for bacteria and algae to take hold
Filtration - The filter is on of the most important
pieces of equipment. Filtered water removes
insoluble waste particles that can cloud the water and compete with
bacteria and algae for the sanitizers attention. Generally a filter should be backwashed when the water pressure in the filter reaches 8 to 10 psi above normal (check manufacture's guidelines).
Cleaning - Some swimming pools have areas with little or no circulation. Vacuuming and brushing
debris in the pool and on the surfaces prevent the growth
of bigger problems, making it easier to keep
the water clean. Routine use of a skimmer net is helpful in removing
floating debris to prevent it from settling
to the bottom of the pool.
Chemistry - Adding the proper amount
of the right products at the right time insures that the water stays
clear, clean and healthy. Balancing the water will protect the pools equipment and pool surfaces. Unbalanced water can permanently damage both.
Testing - By measuring critical
water factors, you can make sure the water is balanced and an adequate
sanitizer level is being maintained. Most important are the pH and the level of active sanitizer.
Paying attention to these five keys will guarantee the beautiful water
you expect. It should also be understood
that poor filtration or inadequate circulation cannot be overcome by
adding more chemicals. Numerous water problems
are related to poor or inadequate filtration and/or circulation.
A pool's filter system does the heavy lifting in keeping the water
clean, but it takes chemistry to do the fine-tuning. It's important to
carefully manipulate the chemical balance in pools.
3 Important parts that helps maintain a crystal blue sparkling pool. * A sanitizer to kill bacteria * A shock to destroy contaminants * A preventative algaecide to stop algae before it starts
Automatic Pressure-Side Cleaners This type works off of water pressure coming from a pump. The pump can
be your main circulation pump, or it can be from a dedicated (booster)
pump. A pressure-side pool cleaner runs by water pressure from the the
pump that drives the cleaner around the pool and is also what forces the
debris into the bag (that holds the debris). The most beneficial thing
about a pressure-side pool cleaner is that it doesn't suck stuff into
your pool filter or pump basket (allowing you more time in between
cleanings). If your pool is around a bunch of trees, or if you get a lot
of debris in your swimming pool, than a pressure-side pool cleaner is
the best way to go.
Automatic Suction-Side Cleaners
These rely on suction to make them move and vacuum the stuff off of the
pool floor. There are several advantages to this. First, as I mentioned
before, is that they act like a moving main drain. When the cleaner is
underwater, sucking stuff into it, it is also sucking water through your
filtration system, causing you to turn more water over in a shorter
amount of time.
Some suction side cleaners have the ability to "scrub" your pool walls.
By agitating itself as it moves around the pool, it also scrubs the
walls. This can possibly cut down on the number of times you need to
brush your pool. And since it sucks stuff right into your filter, it can
remove much finer particles than a pool cleaner with a bag. And since
there is no need to install any additional plumbing or pumps, a
suction-side pool cleaner is usually a lot cheaper to install. If you
are in an area where large debris rarely gets into your pool, then a
suction-side cleaner may be your best bet.
Robotic Automatic Pool Cleaners
These are driven by electric motors inside the unit. The electricity
that powers the cleaner comes from a little transformer that you plug
into a outdoor GFCI outlet. The transformer converts the outlet
electricity to a low voltage which is then connected to the cleaner via a
long cord.
It vacuums stuff strait into its own filter by a separate pump inside
the unit. It also usually has some sort of on board computer chip that
diagnosis any issues with the cleaner and helps to "learn" the shape of
the pool. Some even have a remote control that allows you to maneuver
the cleaner around your pool to spot clean anything it may have missed.
Robotic pool cleaners are one of the best when it comes to small debris
and sand or silt situations. It is one of the only type of pool cleaners
that not only scrubs the walls, but also the tile line. They also serve
as a great supplemental way to circulate the water in your pool because
of the powerful pump inside that vacuums the debris.
There are basically two main
reasons to have a pool cover. The first is to reduce maintenance. By
covering up your pool, you will be protecting it from leaves, dirt,
bugs, and many other things that cause more work for you and your pool
system. They can also protect your pool from extremely cold weather and
retain heat from the sun. The other main reason to have a pool cover is
for safety. Many pool covers are designed specifically to hold the
weight of a child or small animal. These covers also keep maintenance to
a minimum
Choosing a Style
Think about and discuss the reasons you
need a pool cover.
Solar covers are designed to receive the heat from
the sun in the day time and retain that heat within the pool during the
night time. If you have a pool heater, using a solar pool cover will
require less work from it and will save you money and maintenance in
that regard as well. These covers also reduce the evaporation of the
water and chemicals in your pool and keep the general debris out of it.
A
winter cover, best for locations that receive very cold winters, will
give you basic protection from weather. Another interesting part of
winter covers is the way they protect the pool water from the sun,
therefore keeping algae to a minimum. A winter cover will save you money
and maintenance time when it’s time to make your pool summer-ready once
again.
Finally, if you are choosing to use a cover as protection for
your child or pet, go with a safety cover. These covers are designed
specifically to withhold the weight of a child or small animal in order
to avoid any serious accidents. As mentioned above, this type of cover
will also reduce general maintenance.
Buying Your Pool Cover
You will need to measure your pool
size before you actually purchase a cover. Use a tape measure, make sure
you have a partner to help you hold the tape measure, and measure the
pool in feet and inches. If you have curves in your pool, figure out the
radius of the curve. Although some pool covers are custom made, many
will simply stretch completely over the pool. Before you measure your
pool, decide what style you want so you know how much detail of
measurement you will need.
Swimming pool heaters are responsible for heating the water. The heater
is installed outside of your pool between the pool and the pool filter.
The pump pushes water through the pool filter, into the water heater where
the water is heated, and back into the pool. Adding a pool heater to
your pool plumbing system only takes a few steps and will increase your
swimming time in the pool
Instructions
Step 1
Test the water with a pH test kit and add the necessary
chemicals to balance the water. It's important that the water be
balanced before you begin installation of the
pool heater.
Step 2
Turn off the pool pump and for added safety disconnect from
the power outlet. Clean the pool
filter and skimmer of all debris.
Step 3
Locate a spot for the pool heater. The pool heater should be
on level ground about three or four feet away from the pool filter. Use a
leveling tool to be sure the area is level.
Step 4
Attach a PVC pipe from the pool filter return valve to the
inlet valve on the pool heater. Cut the PVC pipe to fit the area using a
small saw or a sharp cutting blade. Use another section of PVC pipe to
attach the return valve jet located on the side of the pool to the
outlet valve on the pool heater.
Step 5
Set the thermostat on the pool heater to your desired
temperature. Reconnect the pool pump to the power outlet and turn it on.
Wait for the water to cycle through the pool filter and the pool
heater.
Step 6
Check for any leaks on the newly installed PVC pipe. If there
are any leaks, turn off the pool pump and secure the leaky areas with
PVC compound.
How to add a Solar Heater to
Your Swimming Pool
Step 1
Why not use the power of the sun to heat your pool? A solar
cover utilizes that power but can be a pain to take off and put on if
you don't have a reel system. A solar heater takes the energy produced
by the sun and can warm your water by as much as ten degrees!
Step 2
If you have never thought about it before, then why not
consider it now! The whole planet is trying to go green, so why not you
and your swimming pool? It's pretty simple to do. All you need is a
filter system with at least a 1 h.p. pump and a solar heating kit.
Step 3
The instructions will come with the kit, but I want to give
you an idea of how the solar heater works. A typical solar heater will
measure about 2- 1/2'wide x 6' long. It comes rolled up like a mat, but
quickly unrolls and can be placed near your pool on the lawn. It is
comprised of a series of thin channels that form one complete circuit or
tunnel if you will. What you do is hook this up to your circulating
system just after the water has passed through your pump and filter. Before
it returns to your pool, it is forced to travel back and forth through
these black plastic channels that have been absorbing the heat of the
day.
Step 4
As the cool water goes through the heated channeling that
heat is transferred to the water raising its temperature. Once it
exits the solar heater it resumes its journey through your return inlet
hose and goes back into the pool. The cumulative effect of all of your
pool water coursing through the solar heater can make a marked and very
noticeably difference in pool temperature.
Tips & Warnings
If
you use a solar heating system, make sure to place it somewhere out of
the way, but still close enough to the pool. If necessary, you may have
to get several longer lengths of hose to make it adapt to your
landscape.
The
black plastic can break, so do not let anyone walk on it or drive
anything over it like a riding mower.
A
roof kit can be purchased so you can put it on a nearby roof to catch
the absorbed heat. Just remember that your pump has to have enough power
to push that water through this system and then back to your pool, so
it shouldn't be too far away or you'll lose pressure and that will
effect your circulation.
The
kit comes with a bypass valve that you should turn when its cloudy out
so that your water bypasses the cool plastic of the solar heater on that
particular day.
Make
sure that all connections are very tight. A hose connection that comes
apart when you're not around can be a very costly problem. That should
not disuade you from going green because you already have hose
connections that could fail, but haven't right? So, we're talking about
only two more which I'm sure you can handle!
How to remove and clean your
pool handrails or ladders.
You may have noticed your handrails or ladders corroding or
rusting. While these may be made from stainless steel, there is no such
thing as "stainless" steel, only various grades of steel. All steels
can rust or stain depending on what chemicals they come in contact with.
The stainless steel grades used in pool rails and ladders are fairly
impervious to pool water that is in balance. However, unbalanced water
chemistry and some other causes (poor electrical grounding, pouring
chemicals near the rails, etc.) can stain or rust.
Step 1
To clean your rails or ladders you must first remove them
from the pool. They are wedged in sockets called deck anchors. By
lifting up the escutcheon plates-the decorative circles around the
rail/ladder where it goes into the deck-you will see the bolt that
raises the anchoring wedge. Using a wrench, you can
unscrew this bolt about a half an inch. You may then need to knock down
the bolt to drive the anchoring wedge down, freeing the rail/ladder. You
now should be able to lift the rail or ladder up and out of its
sockets. If the rail/ladder is stuck, you can use a rubber mallet or
similar tool to bang the rail just above the deck to break it free.
Step 2
If the handrail/ladder still will not come out and you are
sure the wedge is knocked down, you can try using a car jack to get the
rail out. By putting the jack under the hooked part of the rail (you may
need to use a short piece of 2 x 4 to reach), you can apply force
upward. Be careful not to jack it too hard as you can deform the rail or
bend it. Try lifting the jack just enough to apply pressure and hitting
on the rail just above the anchor with your rubber mallet. In most
cases this will free the rail.
Occasionally, you may come across
a rail that will not come out, even with light pressure from a jack.
The rail has probably corroded to the anchor, and you may have to
distort or destroy the rail to get it out. You will have to determine if
replacing the rail and/or the deck anchor is worth it at this point.
Step 3
Now that you have removed the handrail/ladder you can clean
it. The best cleaner for this is Naval Jelly®. Use a plastic scouring
pad (not steel because it scratches the rail) to scrub with. You may
want to disassemble a ladder to make cleaning easier. Be sure to rinse
thoroughly after cleaning to remove all risidual chemical from the
rails. Note: If you can't find Naval Jelly at your local hardware store, try
using Coca Cola®.
Step 4
Now that you have cleaned them well, you can apply some car
wax to them if you like. This will help protect them from the elements
longer. If you close up your pool for the winter, this is an ideal time
to remove and clean your handrails and ladders. By cleaning them, you
will maintain that new look much longer.
How to Install In-Ground Pool
Ladders
Installing an in-ground pool ladder adds a safety feature to the deep end
of your pool. Pool owners often remove ladders during the
winter to prevent damage to the metal railings as well as the pool. This
do-it-yourself job can be accomplished alone in a short amount of time
or even faster with a helper.
Step 1
Ladder cup in pool
deck
Clean out the ladder cups in your pool deck with a
high-pressure spray of water. Over the winter, dirt, leaves and grime
accumulate inside these holes. Failure to clean out the ladder cups will
prevent installation of the ladder. Watch out for flying debris that
can be quite smelly from decomposition.
Step 2
Insert the ladder bumpers onto the bottom edges of the ladder
railing. Ladder bumpers look like a rubberized cork and help protect
pool liners or concrete siding from damage as the ladder moves.
Step 3
Place the ladder wedge inside each ladder cup on the pool
deck. Insert the socket and loosen the wedge with a counter-clockwise
turn so it lies flush against the outside edge of the cup. When
tightened, the wedge holds the ladder firmly in place to prevent
slippage.
Step 4
Ladder cup covers
Slide the ladder carefully into the water, making sure the
bumpers don't fall off into the pool. Installation works best if you
stand between the ladder rails and slowly slide the ladder bumpers
against the side of the pool. Slide the ladder covers up the exterior
rails to keep them out of the way.
Step 5
Insert the exterior ladder posts into the ladder cups in your
pool decking. Wiggle the
ladder until the rails slide completely into the cups with very little
play. Rails should be positioned inside the wedges to allow for
tightening of the bolts.
Step 6
Attach the socket to the wrench and tighten
down the bolts inside the ladder wedges in a clockwise motion. It comes
in handy to have a helper to hold the plastic ladder covers out of the
way when tightening the bolts. Tighten both sides completely and
position the ladder cup covers to hide the point where the ladder meets
the deck.
Step 7
Test the ladder to assure complete and proper installation.
How to Choose a Pool Ladder
Choosing a Ladder for an Above Ground Pool
Step 1
Measure the distance from the ground to the top edge of the
pool in the area that you want to place the ladder.
Step 2
Decide which type of ladder to purchase. Ladder style steps or
staircase style steps? Free-standing or installed on a deck? Stainless
steel or plastic?
Step 3
Purchase a ladder that is no more than 1 foot higher than the
pool edge. A ladder that is too high is a safety concern and can tip.
Choosing a Ladder for an In-Ground Pool
Step 1
Determine if your pool was built with ladder anchors. For
pools without ladder anchors, go to Step 4.
Step 2
Measure the distance between ladder anchors to determine how
wide the ladder should be. Average pool ladders are around 18 inches
wide.
Step 3
Measure the distance from the top of the pool to the bottom
of the pool. Purchase a ladder that will fit within this dimension and
provide a comfortable step out of the water.
Step 4
For pools without ladder anchors, purchase a drop-in
staircase ladder.
Instructions on Installing a Replacement Pool
Liner
Swimming pool liners are a functional part of the complete swimming
pool. Swimming pool liners might need to be replaced for various
reasons, but the replacement of a liner is fairly simple. Replacing your
swimming pool liner helps to refresh the look and feel of your pool.
Installing a Swimming Pool liner
Over time swimming pool liners need to be replaced. People often upgrade or buy liners because
of rips and tears in the old swimming pool liner. Replacing a swimming
pool liner is a simple task but you will need another person to assist
you in the project.
Make sure to complete the replacement on a
warm and sunny day, which will make it easier to handle the pool liner.
Most pool liners are made of vinyl and are more flexible when the
weather is warm.
Before removing the old pool liner you will need
to empty all the water from the pool and use a wet vac to get the last
bit of water up from the pool liner.
Lay out the replacement
liner on a clean surface. Remove the stabilizer rails along the top of
the swimming
pool and set aside so that you can spray them off and wipe down with a
clean cloth.
Remove the metal band that lines the perimeter of
the pool along with the plastic clips. This will allow you to remove the
old pool liner.
Once the old pool liner is lifted out, make sure
to rake the sand smooth
and remove any debris.
Take the replacement pool liner and
gently stretch out over the pool and follow the arrows and seams. The
center seam should be in the center of the pool.
Place the
replacement pool liner in the pool and gently smooth out any wrinkles
and smooth the sides with your hands. Replace the metal band and plastic
clips. Replace the stabilizer rails and fill the pool with water.
Types of Above-Ground Pool Liners
Overlap Liners
These liners go up and over the top edges of the pool and then hang over the side.
Beaded Liners
Beaded liners go up the side of the pool and then snap on a track
with the help of welts or beads that run along the whole edge.
Unibead Liners
These liners can either hang over the over the pool side like an
overlap liner or they can be attached like the beaded liner.
Expandable Liners
Expandable liners are tall liners that accommodate for the extra
vinyl that is needed for the deeper end or middle
swimming areas.
How long do pool liners last?
Vinyl pool liners tend to last 8 years on average with a high rate of
variation. In other words some pool liners last 3 years and some last 15
years. It all depends on good and bad maintenance, use and abuse, and
good and bad luck. As a result, it is important to be a good maintainer
of your swimming pool as well as it is to keep an eye out for potential
abuse to your liners while or while not swimming in your pool.
Your swimming pool is
a big investment, so you want it to run smoothly for years to come.
Choosing the correct size pump and filter system will ensure that your
water is well-filtered and that the pipes won't be damaged by excessive
water pressure. It will also ensure that your pool is as
energy-efficient as possible. Choose a Pool Pump
Step 1
Divide the number of gallons of water your pool holds by 8.
Then, divide the quotient by 60. This will determine the minimum flow
rate you need use to ensure the water in your pool can make a complete
circulation every 8 hours.
Step 2
Determine the maximum flow rate your pool can handle by
looking at its plumbing system. Most pools use 2-inch pipes, which can
handle about 73 gallons per minute. A 1.5-inch pipe can handle less than
45 gallons per minute, while a 3-inch pipe can handle more than 150
gallons per minute. Use a slightly lower flow rate if your plumbing has a
lot of intricate turns and connections that could be stressed by too
much rushing water.
Step 3
Select a pool pump with a flow rate between your minimum and
maximum allowance.
Step 4
Consult a professional for complicated systems that involve
using a single pump for multiple pools, or multiple pumps for a single
pool.
How Does a Pool Pump Work?
Importance of a Pool Pump
All swimming pools have a filtering system to keep the water clean and free of algae and
bacteria. An integral part of your filtering system is the pool pump.
Without a pump your filtering system will not work and your pool will
get too dirty to use rather quickly. Most pool pumps are self priming
which mean if the pump housing is not full of water when you turn the
system on, it will fill it by it's self. This is a very helpful feature
because priming a pump can be a difficult task. Pool pumps come in
various horse power depending on the size of the pool and how many
gallons of water it must pull through the filtering system each hour.
Parts of the Pump
The pump has a motor that turns at a high speed when the pump is
on. At the other end of the pump there is an impeller that is driven by
the pump motor. The pump housing, also known as the vacuum chamber, is
filled with water. This creates a vacuum which allows the pump to pull
the water out of the pool. Some pools have a diffuser in the pump itself
and some have an external diffuser. The diffuser takes the air out of
the pump, hoses or suction piping. If the air does not get out you can
loose your prime. All self priming pumps have diffusers. Another part
important to your pump is the pressure gauge. As the impeller creates
the water pressure it is measured by the gauge. When the pressure gets
too low you will know that the filter is dirty and needs to be cleaned
or back washed.
How the Pump Works
Now that you know how the individual parts work it is easier to
understand how the whole process works. When the pump is turned on and
it is properly primed, the motor turns the impeller. This helps to pull
the water into the vacuum chamber which is the pump housing. The water
goes through a filtering system which could be sand, diatomaceous earth
or a cartridge. The water
is cleaned by the filtering system and pushed back into the pool. All
the while the diffuser is helping to get rid of any air bubbles that
have made their way into the pump. When the pressure gauge shows the low
pressure you will need to back wash the system. This is done by
switching valves to redirect the flow of the water and stopping water
from going into the pool. The water is pulled from the pool, only this
time it goes into the bottom of the filter, pushing the dirt up where it
is drained out. This is done until the water comes out clean. Then the
valves are put back to their original position and the pump starts
pulling the water through the filtering system again
How to Hook Up Your Pool Filter
& Pump
The pump and filter are important fixtures of your swimming pool
maintenance. They are responsible for maintaining clear and clean water.
The pool pump pumps the water through the filter, where the water is
cleaned of debris and particles, and then pumped back into the pool. The
pump is also responsible for circulating necessary chemicals throughout
the water to ensure algae does not grow and the water is sanitized.
It's important to follow the correct steps to install your pump and
filter to ensure both work efficiently.
Step 1
Place the pool pump and filter in a level area about 2 to 3
feet away from the pool skimmer. If needed, use paving stones and a
leveling tool to ensure the area is level. Place the pump near the pool
skimmer, which is on the side of the pool. Place the filter to the right
side of the pool pump, near the return valve on the side of the pool.
Step 2
Connect the outlet valve on the pool skimmer to the inlet valve on
the pool pump, using a piece of pool hose. The valves are labeled, but
you can refer to your owner's manual if needed. Secure both ends of the
hose with hose clamps and tighten the hose clamp with a flat head
screwdriver.
Step 3
Connect the pool filter's outlet valve to the pool return jet
valve, using another piece of pool hose. The pool's return jet valve is
on the sidewall of the pool. Use two pool hose clamps to secure the
hose and tighten.
Step 4
Determine what type of pool pump connection you have. A lot
of newer models have a connector on the pool pump that connects to the
pool filter. If you have that type of connection, use a large wrench and
tighten the connector to the filter. If you do not have a connector,
use a small piece of pool hose and connect the pool pump outlet valve to
the pool filter inlet valve. Secure the hose with two hose clamps. Your
pool is now ready to be filled and the filtration system is now ready
for use.
Assign
an adult to supervise children in and around the swimming pool and spa.
This is needed whether there is one parent or guardian present or
numerous adults present such as during a family event or party.
Maintain
constant eye-to-eye supervision with children in and around the
swimming pool and spa.
Remove
children from the swimming pool and spa area for any distraction such
as a telephone call, use of restroom, etc.
Issue
the adult supervisor an item such as a whistle, bracelet, etc. to
reinforce which adult is in charge of the safety of the children.
Floaties
or other inflatable flotation devices are not life jackets and should
never be substituted for adult supervision.
Maintain
a clear view (no trees, bushes or other obstacles) from the home to the
swimming pool and spa.
Ensure
any adult responsible for the children know the emergency services
telephone number and also your location address in the event emergency
personnel are needed to be called to the scene.
B = Barriers
Have
a fence enclosure that isolates your swimming pool and spa from the
home, play areas, front and side yards and the neighbor’s yard.
Make
sure all gates in the isolation fence are self-closing and
self-latching.
Multiple
layers of barriers isolating the pool and spa from children should be
installed. In addition to an isolation fence, one or more of the
following safety features can provide the additional protection
necessary:
Approved
swimming pool and spa safety cover
Approved swimming pool and spa alarm
Exit alarms on doors providing access to the swimming pool and
spa
Keep all doors and windows leading to the swimming pool and spa
area locked
Doors providing access to the swimming pool and spa equipped to
be self-closing and self-latching with a release mechanism high enough
to be out of the reach of a child.
The man-door from the garage should be self-closing and
self-latching with a release mechanism high enough to be out of the
reach of a child
Perimeter yard fence provided with a self-closing and
self-latching gate
All
chairs, tables, large toys or other objects that would allow a child to
climb up to reach the gate latch or enable the child to climb over the
isolation fence should be removed or kept inside the fenced area.
C = Classes
Learn
how to perform Cardiopulmonary Resuscitation (CPR).
See
CPR Awareness Video on this website; or use the link on this website to
the American Heart Association to sign-up for a CPR class or to purchase
an at-home training kit.
Many people particularly enjoy using their outdoor spa or hot tub during the cold winter months. While the wintertime can be the most enjoyable time to use an outdoor spa, if you live in an area of freezing conditions, there are some things you should do to ensure the proper operation and maximum energy efficiency of your spa.
Keeping it hot: Remember...the colder it is outside, the longer it will take for your spa or hot tub to heat up. Spas will need to run longer during the winter to maintain the same temperature as in the warmer months. When temperatures are freezing it is important to check your tub daily to make sure it is operational and keeping the water heating to the correct temperature. We do not recommend lowering the temperature in between uses, rather it is best to leave it set at one temperature which is whatever you are comfortable with
The most important thing for reducing the energy requirements of your spa in wintertime is a good insulating cover. A waterlogged or deteriorated cover will cost you a lot of money in lost energy, as it has no doubt lost most of its insulating properties. Being heavy, it may also be difficult to remove, may leak rain water or snow melt into the spa, and may even collapse.
Watch the water level: Keep an eye on your spas water level, especially if you do not use your spa every day! If your spa should lose enough water so that the pump shuts down, the water will not circulate, the heater will not run, and your spa could freeze
If you ever lose electrical power where you live, have a contingency plan in place. If the loss is for a short duration, then your risk of freezing is low. Keep the cover on tight until power is restored.
A hot tub provides warm water therapy that
makes the installation of one worthwhile even though it may seems a bit
challenging. Significant preparation is necessary in order to coordinate
a successful installation, which should begin with knowing the actual
dimensions of the hot tub you plan to install. Allocating the proper
space and selecting the desired view are two of the details that will
affect your decision for a long time to come.
Step 1
Plan your installation carefully, including the entire trip
from showroom to final hot tub placement. Select the easiest route on
your property, making note of tight turns or obstacles requiring lift to
get over or around.
Step 2
Prepare a level surface able to support 100-pounds per square
foot. Concrete or reinforced decking material is
necessary equipped with both drainage and water access.
Step 3
Pre-install 220-volt, 50-amp electric service attached to a
ground fault interrupt circuit more than 5-feet from the tub. The
certified electrician should have the cable prepped and ready for final
hook up.
Step 4
Use a flatbed truck capable of supporting the weight and
dimensions of the hot tub and drive it as close to the installation site
as possible.
Step 5
Arrange to have eight or nine strong people on hand for a
short period, to off load the spa and transport it
by hand the rest of the way. Once it is in place, the extra people can
leave.
Step 6
Connect all pumps, hoses, cut-off valves and any other
connection peculiar to that particular hot tub model.
Step 7
Fill the hot tub with a garden hose using cold water until
reaching the fill line.
Step 8
Instruct the electrician to hook up the electric service and
then follow manufacturer instructions on initial startup of that
particular model.
Step 9
Try all jets, pumps, lights and features to determine if all
are working correctly. Set the thermostat to 100 degrees and make sure
the heater works.
Step 10
Treat the hot tub chemically and place the hot tub cover on
the tub to retain the heat until you reach the desired temperature. Save
all paperwork, such as instructions , warranty card and model
information regarding this hot tub.
Start Up: Test your waters chemistry 8oz. of metal remover. - i.e. (Metal Gone) Add Sanitizer to your water, Bromine or Chlorine.Use one or the other. NEVER BOTH! (this will have to be adjusted up and down until testing is satisfied)
Day 1: 2 oz. of Clarifier - i.e. (Bright & Clear) 2 oz. of Shock Treatment - i.e. (Renew)
Day 2: 1. Turn Spa off. 2. Remove your filter and cleanse with a filter cleaner and/or hot water. 3. Re-Install your filter (this only needs to be done at initial start up and periodically as spa is used).
NOTE: When adding chemicals. Remove spa cover completely from spa for at least 20 minutes, to prevent chemical damage.
Day 4: 2 oz. of Anti Scaling Agent - i.e. (Spa Defender) 1 oz. of Organic Remover - i.e. (Enzyme)
